Skip to main content

ASTM F2170 (RH) “Concrete Moisture Testing”


ASTM F2170 (In-Situ) “Rh”  Concrete Moisture Testing 

Is an industry standard in the floor covering world, yet so many choose to ignore it. We here it all the time, no, we do not do any moisture testing for Luxury Vinyl Plank (LVP). We just use plastic underneath. “That’s what they are telling us to do”…. This poses an ever greater problem. Great, lets just trap all the moisture in the slab and have a mushroom field underneath. That sounds great! Mold in the walls and baseboards, who cares, right? I hear it more often than you think. 



After reading competitors installation instructions well into the night hours, I’ve come to this same conclusion over and over again. ASTM F2170 is required across all segments of the floor covering world, with the exception of residential carpet. Now, this is nothing new, and I’ve been saying all of this for years… It’s all about doing things right from the very beginning. So many problems could be avoided, if people would just “do the right thing”… Start  by reading the installation instructions beforehand. Knowledge is power, right? Don’t forget to document all moisture testing/RH results prior to installation.  Sounds great, right? Sadly, few listen, and many simply do not care. Just ask the question, what type of moisture testing do you do, or do you know what ASTM F2170 is, and see what you get. You’ll get all kinds of wrong answers, and a lot of strange/aggravated looks. 


Hardwood, Laminate, Tile, Carpet Tile and LVP, all require the same RH test.  It’s in everyone’s installation instructions, it all says the same thing.. Just like Hardwood Flooring, Waterproof LVP Moisture Testing Methods are to adhere to Standard ASTM F2170. Same test for engineered wood, and click LVP? Yes, its the same test. Hmmm, think about that for a second… RH testing is a must requirement prior to installation, and the industry standards should never be ignored. Sadly, this is not the case. The industry can benefit greatly, when we truly understand what we are doing. Until then, you will find many of those who do not. So, be careful out there and just ask the question.


With that said, my job is to educate and serve, and that is exactly what I am trying to do. To better the industry, and to educate is all I can do.  Now, just pay attention, and do business with those who go “by the book”. When it comes to installing floor covering; make sure industry standards are being followed. Knowledge/Accountability is key. No one wants it done wrong, right? Of course, not. 


Color and price are one-thing, but just one faulty installation, and you wont care what the floor looks like. You’ll just ask, why didn’t we do this from the beginning? Do business with someone who pays attention to the details; especially when it comes to the installation side of things. 


Lastly, and again, pay attention to the instructions and just ask the question. If they are not RH testing, ask them why? Your installations require it Mr. Installer. 


The end.

Comments

Post a Comment

Popular posts from this blog

Solid Vs. Engineered Hardwood. Which is better?

In this article I will cover the difference between engineered and solid wood flooring. I often get asked; is engineered hardwood actually real wood? The answer to that question is: Yes! There are some who think that engineered wood is inferior to its solid counterpart. Solid wood has its benefits, however it is not necessarily better than engineered. Actually, the opposite just may be true. Engineered hardwood has a cross-plywood construction, with a solid wood veneer laminated to the top. Solid hardwood is just that, solid. Both styles range in thickness from 5/16 to 3/4 inch. Both types of floors come prefinished or unfinished and come in a variety of widths and styles. There are several benefits to engineered hardwood. Here are just a few. Engineered hardwood is more dimensionally stable than solid wood flooring. Engineered floors can be glued down directly to concrete, floated or stapled. They can be installed above, on, or below grade. Engineered floors are less prone to cupping
33 comments
Read more

Urethane vs. Acrylic adhesives

If you are about to install engineered hardwood using the glue down method, I recommend that you read this article. One of the most important factors when installing engineered hardwood is the adhesive. Using the proper adhesive is critical to a successful installation. In this article I will briefly cover the differences between Acrylic and Urethane based adhesives. Let me start with acrylic adhesives. Acrylic adhesives are resin based and contain a certain percentage of water in them. The main problem with resin based adhesives, is the lack of tensile strength. In order for Acrylic adhesives to perform at their optimal level, the sub-floor needs to be well prepared and extremely flat. If the sub-floor is not level and flat and you choose to use an acrylic adhesive, I guarantee you will have hollow spots once the job is complete. Hollow spots are areas in which the wood floor is not adhered properly to the substrate. This problem is common and can be recognized by a popping or hollow
2 comments
Read more

The Valinge Locking System

If you are looking to purchase a new laminate or hardwood floor and you plan on doing it yourself, then I recommend buying Robina. Robina laminate and hardwood, both feature the Valinge locking system. This locking system is the best on the market today and is the easiest laminate/wood floor to install ever. Valinge produces a 2G and a 5G locking mechanism. The 5G versions are used on all 12mm laminates and all 1/2" wood products. The 2G systems are used on 8.3mm laminates and 3/8" wood products. The main difference between the 2G and the 5G is that the 5G products has a plastic clip on the end of the boards, the 2G does not. However, both locking systems work identically. The big advantage Valinge has against its competition is that there is no need for a tapping block or hammer. This product drops and locks right into place with no beating or banging. The Unilin system requires a tapping block and hammer (which could damage the floor) and is more difficult to install. The V
4 comments
Read more